Cell turnover slows dramatically as we age, from approximately 20 days in younger and middleaged adults up to over 30 days in older adults. As this happens, it affects the skin’s appearance and texture in a variety of ways. From fine lines and wrinkles to acne and hyperpigmentation, chemical peels are one of the most effective ways to address these changes. But they’re not a one-size-fits-all treatment: for optimal results, a peel should be strong enough to accelerate cell turnover but not so powerful as to induce severe skin inflammation. Since every person’s skin is different, the best solution is to give our clients the knowledge they need to create completely customized peels — which is where the inspiration for our Pro Power Peel collection came from. Our strongest and fastest peel yet, it enables us to professionally tailor each treatment to our client’s skin concerns, helping them achieve their healthiest-looking skin ever.
Chemical peels are an excellent treatment choice for a wide range of skin concerns, from acne and hyperpigmentation to advanced signs of aging. Despite their varying uses, most peels work the same way: they remove the skin’s outermost layers to stimulate cell renewal and cell turnover, improving skin’s texture and appearance. Peels are classified into four categories, based on penetration depth and their effect on the skin:
Used to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and signs of aging, these peels affect the Stratum Corneum and don’t penetrate beyond the granular level (Stratum Granulosum).
are used to exfoliate skin in the epidermal layer down to the Basal Layer (or Stratum Germinativum). They treat signs of aging, acne and hyperpigmentation.
Typically performed by professionals, these peels reach the upper layers of the dermis down to the papillary dermis. They treat superficial scars and solar keratoses as well as hyperpigmentation and signs of aging.
Performed only by Master Aesthetician Anthony Guerrera , deep peels remove the papillary dermis and reach the reticular dermis to address severe photoaging, deep wrinkles and scars .
The efficacy of a chemical peel depends on a number of factors, from the client’s skin condition to the skin therapist’s application method. Taking each of these factors into consideration during the treatment process will help to optimize your client’s results.
Generally speaking, healthy skin is less likely to experience adverse reactions to a chemical peel. Cracked or dehydrated skin allows chemical peel agents to penetrate further, which can intensify stinging and burning.
Many clients can benefit from preliminary treatments or products that “prime” the skin, helping to prepare it for the high activity of a chemical peel – particularly if they are new to peels. Priming exfoliating agents helps to acclimate skin and ensure that the client receives the best possible result from their peel.
Just before the peel, it’s important to “prep” the skin. We follow the Pro Power Peel protocol step-by-step to ensure that the client’s skin is thoroughly double cleansed and degreased; this helps the chemical peel penetrate skin evenly and effectively.
Peeling agent(s), solution pH and concentration
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) all have different molecular sizes, and therefore penetrate skin to different degrees. Because of this, each acid lends itself to the treatment of different skin concerns. Peel pH and concentration play a role, too; for AHAs and BHAs, the pH of the solution is just as important as the concentration of the acid. Peeling agents with a low pH are more acidic and better able to target concerns like pigmentation and wrinkles.
The way a peel is applied can play a role in penetration depth. Massaging can increase product absorption – but because it also increases blood circulation, it can lead to higher chances of erythema, sensitivity or inflammation. Application tools can determine absorption, too: We use gauze to allow more solution to be applied to the skin than a brush. We also use cotton swabs, it is preferable when we need more control to spot-treat or target precise areas .
Keratolytic agents (AHAs and BHAs)
Keratolytic agents break apart the snap-like bonds (corneodesmosomes) that hold dead skin cells (corneocytes) together, allowing them to shed more easily and therefore improving the skin’s texture and overall appearance. Widely considered the most versatile group of peeling agents, AHAs (including Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Malic Acid) are water-soluble and can be used at different concentrations for different effects on the skin. Clients can use them at low concentrations on a daily basis to slowly exfoliate over time; used in higher concentrations they exfoliate the epidermis more quickly, breaking corneodesmosomes at the cellular level. BHAs, like Salicylic Acid, are oil-soluble, making them an excellent treatment choice for oily and acne-prone skin. They can actually penetrate the skin through the follicles and sebaceous glands while helping to dissolve follicular impactions.
Keratocoagulant agents (TCA)
Keratocoagulant agents contribute to exfoliation by coagulating the skin’s proteins, contributing to enhanced cell renewal rates and cell turnover. In this reaction, the protein is denatured, similar to an egg white turning white as it cooks. This can produce the skin-whitening effect known as “frosting”, particularly in areas of breakout or dehydration.
pH and acidity
In order for AHAs and BHAs to effectively exfoliate, they must be formulated at a low pH; they’re most effective at a pH of 1.0-2.5. The skin’s natural pH is mildly acidic, ranging from 4.5-5.5; exposing it to more acidic conditions contributes to AHAs’ and BHAs’ exfoliating efficacy. The change in pH causes a superficial shock to the cells, contributing to desquamation and increased cell renewal.
Chemical peels use a specially formulated chemical solution to remove damaged skin layers, forcing the skin to regenerate itself. As the skin heals, a clearer, younger-looking complexion is revealed. Treatments are safe, but we advise you to be cautious with sun exposure afterwards. Keeping out of direct sunlight will prevent uneven pigmentation and help keep your post-treatment skin healthy.
Peels are most often recommended for aging, sun-damaged and hyper-pigmented skin, however, all skin types will benefit from a deeper peel. The appropriate type of peel for you will be determined using the Fitzpatrick Scale. Pregnant and nursing mothers are not suitable for this procedure.
Having your skin in great shape before the peel is imperative.
Sure, you can get a peel without healthy skin, but if you really want great results, healthy is definitely better. Skincare Lounge Spa carries pharmaceutical grade skin care that will prep your skin for optimal results.
Recovery times will vary based on the type and strength of the peel. Immediately after the peel, your skin will feel tight and may be red. Days 2 and 3, skin may thicken and dark spots may look darker. By the 4th day you may notice mild peeling starting around mouth and nose. Any visible peeling will be light and fluffy and easily controlled with moisturizer. Peeling usually lasts 3-5 days, depending on the actual peel treatment. Use of gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen is important, as it will enhance the healing process and results
A single treatment will smooth, tighten and brighten your skin leaving you with a more youthful appearance. However, a series is recommended for optimal results.
When it comes to chemical peels, we’ve always had a unique perspective. Promoting overall skin health is one of Dermalogica’s core values. We also believe that regular resurfacing is crucial to accelerate cell turnover and renewal rates – so we opt for peels that are more frequent and less invasive rather than those that push the skin to the point of severe inflammation and possible scarring.
A unique complex of phytoactive AHA extracts, Lactic Acid and fermented plant enzymes helps reveal new, firmer skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by removing dulling surface debris without causing dehydration.
Formulated with gentle yet effective 90% Phytic Acid from Rice Bran Extract to increase cell turnover while brightening skin.
Benefits • Dissolves dulling surface debris to reveal bright, healthy looking skin • Radiant looking & smooth skin texture
Ultra-effective brightening peel featuring 30% Lactic Acid complexed with Rice-derived Phytic Acid, AHA-rich Grape Juice Extract and Mucor Fungal Extract, along with Tangerine Peel, helps to reduce the appearance of early signs of aging and even skin tone.
Benefits • Brightens dull skin • Minimizes the appearance of fine lines • Hydrates dry and dull skin
Powerful peel with 30% Glycolic Acid and Ricederived Phytic Acid and Opuntia (Prickly Pear) Flower Extract resurfaces skin to help fight the visible effects of AGEs (Advanced Glycation End-products) to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles .
Benefits • Reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation • Minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles • Evens skin tone
15% TCA complexed with Garden Sprout Extract, Soy Genistein, Phytic Acid and Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 minimizes the appearance of deep lines and wrinkles to address advanced signs of aging.
Benefits • Minimizes the appearance of deep lines and wrinkles • Reduces signs of hyperpigmentation • Brightens dull skin
2% Salicylic Acid with 10% Mandelic Acid and 15% Malic Acid and a patented Terpineol-Thymol Complex targets blemishes, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and redness.
Benefits • Helps prevent breakouts • Reduces post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation • Diminishes excess oil production.
Even more reasons to love your Chemical Peel ! Enhance your treatment with these Exceptional upgrades.
An energizing, rejuvenating, stress-relieving experience. Originally developed by NASA, LED works by sending energy-producing light into the deepest layers of the skin. The effects plump up aging skin by boosting collagen production. It can also help treat mild to moderate acne skin, improve oxygenation, increases cellular activity and skin elasticity.
* Can be added to any Chemical Peel treatment - Click here to Book it
This treatment is ideal for the client looking for gentler alternatives to injections or fillers. Microcurrent recharges facial tissue. It works by combining a unique electrical waveform in combination with a conductive gel and the natural occurring biological current of the body. This technology has the capacity to work internally on the muscle fiber and tissue for visible, external results.
* Can be added to any Chemical Peel treatment - Click here to Book it
Like laser and LED treatments, radiofrequency uses energy to stimulate collagen and elastin production, but the heat energy is electrical rather than light based. It is a treatment that has become increasingly popular in recent years and uses RF energy to heat the dermis and tighten the skin without damaging the top layer.” During this treatment a machine is used to heat the skin to between 38-40 degrees with radiofrequency, which feels like a hot stone face massage.
Pamper your skin with this Non-invasive treatment add on , enjoy the freshness , cooling and soothing sensation .This add on Treatment reduces inflammation around the eyes, fights acne, prevents and combats the early appearance of wrinkles, also reduces the size of the pores and tones facial muscles. It ideal for all skin types. An ice cold device is used to perform this treatment along with a cool micro mist to close pores, revitalize and soothe the skin.
Request a consultation to learn more about the above procedures and to determine if you’re a good candidate, or click the link below to book an appointment .