Chemical Peels

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Cell turnover slows dramatically as we age, from approximately 20 days in younger and middleaged adults up to over 30 days in older adults. As this happens, it affects the skin’s appearance and texture in a variety of ways. From fine lines and wrinkles to acne and hyperpigmentation, chemical peels are one of the most effective ways to address these changes. But they’re not a one-size-fits-all treatment: for optimal results, a peel should be strong enough to accelerate cell turnover but not so powerful as to induce severe skin inflammation. Since every person’s skin is different, the best solution is to give our clients the knowledge they need to create completely customized peels — which is where the inspiration for our Pro Power Peel collection came from. Our strongest and fastest peel yet, it enables us to professionally tailor each treatment to our client’s skin concerns, helping them achieve their healthiest-looking skin ever. chemical peeling for pigmentation Center City Rittenhouse Square Philadelphia

Chemical peels are an excellent treatment choice for a wide range of skin concerns, from acne and hyperpigmentation to advanced signs of aging. Despite their varying uses, most peels work the same way: they remove the skin’s outermost layers to stimulate cell renewal and cell turnover, improving skin’s texture and appearance. Peels are classified into four categories, based on penetration depth and their effect on the skin: 

• Very superficial peels

Used to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and signs of aging, these peels affect the Stratum Corneum and don’t penetrate beyond the granular level (Stratum Granulosum).

• Superficial peels These peels 

are used to exfoliate skin in the epidermal layer down to the Basal Layer (or Stratum Germinativum). They treat signs of aging, acne and hyperpigmentation. 

• Medium-depth peels 

Typically performed by professionals, these peels reach the upper layers of the dermis down to the papillary dermis. They treat superficial scars and solar keratoses as well as hyperpigmentation and signs of aging. 

• Deep peels 

Performed only by Master Aesthetician Anthony Guerrera , deep peels remove the papillary dermis and reach the reticular dermis to address severe photoaging, deep wrinkles and scars . chemical peeling for pigmentation Center City Rittenhouse Square Philadelphia

The efficacy of a chemical peel depends on a number of factors, from the client’s skin condition to the skin therapist’s application method. Taking each of these factors into consideration during the treatment process will help to optimize your client’s results. 

Skin health 

Generally speaking, healthy skin is less likely to experience adverse reactions to a chemical peel. Cracked or dehydrated skin allows chemical peel agents to penetrate further, which can intensify stinging and burning. 

Skin priming

Many clients can benefit from preliminary treatments or products that “prime” the skin, helping to prepare it for the high activity of a chemical peel – particularly if they are new to peels. Priming exfoliating agents helps to acclimate skin and ensure that the client receives the best possible result from their peel. 

Skin prep

Just before the peel, it’s important to “prep” the skin. We follow the Pro Power Peel protocol step-by-step to ensure that the client’s skin is thoroughly double cleansed and degreased; this helps the chemical peel penetrate skin evenly and effectively. 

Peeling agent(s), solution pH and concentration

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) all have different molecular sizes, and therefore penetrate skin to different degrees. Because of this, each acid lends itself to the treatment of different skin concerns. Peel pH and concentration play a role, too; for AHAs and BHAs, the pH of the solution is just as important as the concentration of the acid. Peeling agents with a low pH are more acidic and better able to target concerns like pigmentation and wrinkles. 

Application method 

The way a peel is applied can play a role in penetration depth. Massaging can increase product absorption – but because it also increases blood circulation, it can lead to higher chances of erythema, sensitivity or inflammation. Application tools can determine absorption, too: We use gauze to allow more solution to be applied to the skin than a brush. We also use cotton swabs, it is preferable when we need more control to spot-treat or target precise areas . chemical peeling for pigmentation Rittenhouse Square Philadelphia Center City

Keratolytic agents (AHAs and BHAs) 

Keratolytic agents break apart the snap-like bonds (corneodesmosomes) that hold dead skin cells (corneocytes) together, allowing them to shed more easily and therefore improving the skin’s texture and overall appearance. Widely considered the most versatile group of peeling agents, AHAs (including Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Malic Acid) are water-soluble and can be used at different concentrations for different effects on the skin. Clients can use them at low concentrations on a daily basis to slowly exfoliate over time; used in higher concentrations they exfoliate the epidermis more quickly, breaking corneodesmosomes at the cellular level. BHAs, like Salicylic Acid, are oil-soluble, making them an excellent treatment choice for oily and acne-prone skin. They can actually penetrate the skin through the follicles and sebaceous glands while helping to dissolve follicular impactions.  

Keratocoagulant agents (TCA) 

Keratocoagulant agents contribute to exfoliation by coagulating the skin’s proteins, contributing to enhanced cell renewal rates and cell turnover. In this reaction, the protein is denatured, similar to an egg white turning white as it cooks. This can produce the skin-whitening effect known as “frosting”, particularly in areas of breakout or dehydration. 

pH and acidity 

In order for AHAs and BHAs to effectively exfoliate, they must be formulated at a low pH; they’re most effective at a pH of 1.0-2.5. The skin’s natural pH is mildly acidic, ranging from 4.5-5.5; exposing it to more acidic conditions contributes to AHAs’ and BHAs’ exfoliating efficacy. The change in pH causes a superficial shock to the cells, contributing to desquamation and increased cell renewal. chemical peel chemical peeling for pigmentation Center City Rittenhouse Square Philadelphia

Chemical peels use a specially formulated chemical solution to remove damaged skin layers, forcing the skin to regenerate itself. As the skin heals, a clearer, younger-looking complexion is revealed. Treatments are safe, but we advise you to be cautious with sun exposure afterwards. Keeping out of direct sunlight will prevent uneven pigmentation and help keep your post-treatment skin healthy. chemical peeling for pigmentation Center City Rittenhouse Square Philadelphia

Peels are most often recommended for aging, sun-damaged and hyper-pigmented skin, however, all skin types will benefit from a deeper peel. The appropriate type of peel for you will be determined using the Fitzpatrick Scale. Pregnant and nursing mothers are not suitable for this procedure. chemical peel chemical peeling for pigmentation Center City Rittenhouse Square Philadelphia

Having your skin in great shape before the peel is imperative.

Sure, you can get a peel without healthy skin, but if you really want great results, healthy is definitely better. Skincare Lounge Spa carries pharmaceutical grade skin care that will prep your skin for optimal results.

Recovery times will vary based on the type and strength of the peel. Immediately after the peel, your skin will feel tight and may be red. Days 2 and 3, skin may thicken and dark spots may look darker. By the 4th day you may notice mild peeling starting around mouth and nose. Any visible peeling will be light and fluffy and easily controlled with moisturizer. Peeling usually lasts 3-5 days, depending on the actual peel treatment. Use of gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen is important, as it will enhance the healing process and results

A single treatment will smooth, tighten and brighten your skin leaving you with a more youthful appearance. However, a series is recommended for optimal results. chemical peel chemical peeling for pigmentation Center City Rittenhouse Square Philadelphia